Ninoshvili.

Ninoshvili opened because Rustaveli filled up. Same idea — wooden chairs, an old record on the turntable, a wall that fills itself with photographs faster than we can frame them.

The block is quieter, the mornings are slower, and the light through the window at four o'clock is the best in Tbilisi. That is not a sales pitch. That is a fact.

If you've been to Rustaveli, you already know the menu, the prices, and the rules. If you haven't — welcome. Take your jacket off, the chair is yours for the next forty-five minutes.